Patty Smukall
“Enjoy a day aboard the Lu-Lu Belle”’ the sign read. Little did I know that one day, on this
magnificent 70+ foot luxurious vessel, venturing out into Prince
William Sound, would my childhood dreams come true! My childhood is when my fascination with
cetaceans, whales, dolphins and porpoises, started but didn’t end. My endless curiosity about these fascinating
creatures continued into adulthood and throughout my life, leading me to pursue
a degree in Zoology and a 10 year career at Sea World, working with marine
mammals for most of it. This phase of my life gave me plenty of opportunities
to observe, rescue and care for marine mammals of many types, mostly Atlantic
Bottlenose dolphins, manatees and sea lions.
I participated in many necropsies over the years as Sea World at that
time was the leader in rescuing and rehabilitation of any marine mammals along
the coast of central Florida. I even planned my vacation around the
migration of the California Grey Whales, and traveled to California
to see them pass during their 6,000 mile round trip migration from the Bering
Sea to the lagoons of Baja,
Mexico.
But it was the big
ones I longed to see, the majestic humpbacks, Megaptera novaeangliae, http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/species/mammals/cetaceans/humpbackwhale.htm the ones famous for their songs that vary
from group to group and change from year to year, just as our music changes
with the times. These are the whales
that are also known for their social behaviors, especially their
“bubble-netting” , a feeding behavior which demonstrates their social ability
to communicate, coordinate their activities and even to take turns.
I know many adult Homo sapiens who have a very hard time with that last
requirement! Bubble-netting involves
these foraging crustacean-eating giants to encircle their prey, which consists
mostly of tiny krill and copepods, and methodically exhale a net of
bubbles. Little do these tiny
crustaceans know that they can swim right through these bubbles! By working in groups of 3 or more, all
blowing bubbles underwater, the whales increase the efficiency of the hunting
method. The whales then take turns lunge
feeding. Lunge feeding involves lifting
vertically out of the water with open mouths, through patches of unsuspecting,
confused tiny invertebrates. Their
expandable throat grooves allow for the consumption of thousands of pounds of
krill at a time. The krill is trapped on their flexible baleen plates, as they
water through the row of baleen and swollen the prey. This ingenious, infallible system clearly
demonstrates their teamwork and intelligence.
It wasn’t until my own son, now a fisheries biologist
himself, living in Alaska,
invited me up to visit, that I was given to opportunity to see these majestic
giants perform this and other behaviors.
I enjoyed seeking out and observing all of the wildlife Alaska has to offer;
bears, moose, salmon galore, herds of caribou and birds on their way to their
migration destinations. But in the back
of my mind, I longed to see the whales Alaska
is home to.
I got my opportunity as we pulled in the quaint town of Valdez. The rest of my group peered out the windows,
looking for a “vacancy” sign at any of the handful of hotels. This was, after all, the peak of the tourist
season and all towns on the coast fill up during the summer due to the famous
run of the salmon. Fishing boats abounded, the smell of the sea surrounded us
and no vacancies were apparent. Then I saw
it - a sign showing a humpback whale breaching, and claiming to be the best
wildlife viewing vessel in Valdez.
It was larger than life, at least to me and there was no stopping me, depleted
budget or not, I was sold.
Glacier Wildlife
Cruises prides itself on taking their time to ensure that its passengers enjoy
the wildlife available and a close-up view of the Columbia Glacier. The cruise is scheduled to last from 5/12 to 7 hours, depending on what is seen
along the way. However, Captain Fred Rodolf, owner of the Lu-Lu
Belle, a mighty vessel http://www.lulubelletours.com/
, has been cruising Prince William Sound since 1979 and his in his personal
style, narrates during the entire cruise, sharing his knowledge of the area and
the abundance of wildlife it treasures.
Captain Rudolf himself restored his yacht, one of the most beautiful in Alaska, and is at the
helm for every one of its enlightening cruises.
He believes in staying out on the Sound until its passengers have had
the chance to take in and take photos of what they sought out to see. In my case, it was whales.
Find whales we did, but along the way, we were treated to an
array of nature’s miracles. Before we
ever left the small boat harbor in Valdez,
we saw rafts of sea otters floating and shielding their pups. http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/sea-otter As we entered the magnificent Prince William Sound,
Steller’s Sea Lions, rested on the buoys. This was nothing compared to
the hundreds of them in rookeries we passed along the shoreline. These pinnipeds http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/species/mammals/pinnipeds
are an on-going conservation success story, still recovering from decades of
over-harvesting, and to see them fighting for space on the shore, ready to
breed and add to the next generation literally brought tears to my eyes. As we looked carefully
up at the cliffs above these rookeries, we saw puffins nesting in the cracks
and crevices.
Going further out to see, we were accompanied by schools of
Dall’s Porpoises, Phocoenoides dalli, http://dallsporpoise.org/index.php trying to catch a ride on our bow wake. This, of course delighted the passengers,
especially the children onboard. But
where were the whales, the big humpbacks I had hoped for? Many onboard were excited to see the small,
immature Gray Whale, Eschrichitus robusus,
http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/species/mammals/cetaceans/graywhale.htm
detected and pointed out by no other than my son I have to say. Exciting? Yes. Was it capable of taking my breath away? No. This was awesome but I wasn’t as
impressed as some, since I had seen lots of bigger, mature grey whales off the
coast of California.
Then it happened! In
the distance Capt. Fred saw a pod of Humpbacks, and slowly, ever so quietly
approached them, carefully keeping a respectful distance. They were feeding and diving, presenting
those incredible 10 foot wide tail flukes that scientists use to identify each
one. The scars, markings, and patterns
are unique to each one of them, just as our fingerprints are unique to us. Through my tear-filled eyes I was witnessing
what I had been waiting all of my life for; seeing the playful antics of a real
live baleen whale enjoying life in its own natural world! One of these giants
must have been sent from heaven to amuse us and fulfill my dream, because after
a few minutes of watching 40+ people scramble from one side of the boat to the
other every time he moved, he decided to put on a spectacle all of us will
never forget. He slowly wandered away
from the rest of the pod, and proceeded to perform all of the visible behaviors
that I teach my Marine Biology students in class every year. There were the tail lobs (lobbing the tail in
the air and slapping the flukes on the surface), fluking (raising its tail
before a dive), pec-slaps (lying on its side or back, hitting the surface with
its flippers known as pecs) and the spy hopping (raising the head out of the
water to expose the eyes and take a look around). Then, as I stood there on the most forward
part of the boat (yes, the part Leonardo
Dicaprio hung over in the Titanic),
thinking life just can’t get any better than this, this gorgeous 12+ meter
Humpback Whale repeated breached before my eyes. I was so awestruck by all of this, I had not
even taken one picture, but that’s ok because the images are all forever
engrained in my heart.